May 6, 2008
7:11 pm
Padking, Nepal
Yesterday we arrived in Kathmandu. The airport was old and raw, hard times were clearly visable on the exposed brick. To our relief all of our bags made it safely into our hands. We were so happy to see them after not laying eyes on our bags since SLC, three plane rides and one day later. We were rushed through the visa line, then customs and then were literally pushed out into the humid Kathmandu air. It instantly began to rain, then hail, then more monsoon force rain. After searching hundreds of faces pressed to the glass at the arrivals gate we spotted our guide, Geljen holding a sign "John and Annie Ream." Geljen quickly grabbed us - yelled in Nepali for the people to leave us alone and went for a car. The rain continued to shower down on the pavement as we shoved our bags and ourselves into a small car.
They drive on the right here, the steering wheel is on the right, that was unexpected! There are also no street lights, no traffic lanes.. it is a free for all and the bravest car with the loudest horn wins. We were on all sides of the road, back and forth, back and forth to get wherever we were going even faster. I personally didn't understand the hurry but what a moment- terror and fun all at the same time! Mix in inches of rain, no defrost in the car and poor windshield wipers and you have yourself a rollercoaster of fun. Our driver had only a cloth as his defense to wipe off the water and steam from the windshield. Most of the time he was steering blind through the choatic streets. Kathmandu is a strange, rough and raw city. It speaks of better times now literally crumbling with the buildings. Life looks hard here for these people and I can't help but feel so lucky for being born in the situation I was. A family to love and care for me, food, shelter an education - things so precious and yet so taken advantage of back home. Little children beg. People lie in the streets. Dogs and cows roam in and out of the heavy traffic. It feels like a war of survival and it seems only the roads and the sacred cows are winning. The city smells wild. A mix between animals, dirt, car exhaust, crumbling concrete dust and rotting buildings penetrate my nose. It doesn't stink, it just smells strange and old, like an old book that's been dropped in a puddle and walked over for a hundred years.
This place is loud! Hindu Music blasts and blares from windows, horns honk - thousands of them, people yelling, laughing and talking. I am grateful we have Geljen navigating us through the city, this experience would have been much scarier without him!
In Kathmandu with our bag!
The very large Kathmandu Valley
This morning we left our hotel at 5:30 am to go back to the airport to catch our plane to Lukla. I woke up early this morning to take a shower and while the warm water streamed down my face I said goodbye to showers for a while! I have a feeling I am going to miss this!
Once again the airport was crazy, but more so today! The airport opens at 6 am, with the first flight (our flight) leaving at 6:15 am. You can imagine the 15 minute panic. Today we leave Geljen and depart with our guide Lhakpa, his wife and his young daughter. Everyone runs nervously around as we are pushed (again literally) from one line to another. The women in one group of lines, the men in another. From there we are pushed out onto the runway in a bus and into a very small 19 seat plane. This is by far the smallest plane I have ever been in and my heart races as we take off. "do a good job, do a good job!"
Early Morning Plane Ride to Lukla
in the 19 seater plane
After about a 25 minute ride through the mountains we arrive in Lukla. Lukla is a small village perched on the side of the rugged Himalayas. I can not believe that we are finally here!! The crisp and sweet air smells of rain and onions. The cool morning mountain air tickles my cheeks and bare arms. We leave the runway and make our way to a giant chain linked fence wrapped with barb wire. On our side, guides and travelers, on the other.. hundreds of porters looking for work. Lhakpa picks two. One porter, very small grabs John and I's two giant duffles and begins to lug them up a steep trail that connects the airport to the village. After a cup of tea, we begin our trek..
Lukla Airport
The trail is lovely! High on the side of the mountains, it meanders through green pine trees and furs. It strikes me just how far away from EVERYTHING we are! This trail is literally the only way in and the only way out! The remoteness is amazing and incredible. There are NO Roads, NO cars, only feet, houses and yaks. Everything here has to be packed in. Packed in on the backs of porters, young and old men and women and yaks. Everything I see man made is the result of feet and backs. Toilets, lights, glass, plywood, food! All is packed in in woven baskets. We keep seeing two porters carrying some sort of electronic equipment we assume is going to base camp. They have to stop every 100 feet or so to rest from the heavy load crushing their backs. I am saddened and hate that I am participating in this apparent human explotation. That is all I can say now about that.. Besides this, the walk is beautiful! We walk through villages and see people gardening, children playing and men chipping at rocks to build structures and houses. John has been giving the children candy and making lots of new young friends! Our experience so far is amazing!
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