You Should Have Been Here Yesterday When Tomorrow Was Today: Nepal Part 2

May 11, 2008
6:10 AM
Thame, Nepal

**another entry from the travel journal!

Good Early Morning from Thame!
Early morning and early nights are our usual routine here. We usually get up at about 6 am, pack and get "cleaned up".. meaning wipe off with a moist towelette, put some lotion on, comb our greasy hair and head down for tea and toast at 7:30 and start hiking at 8 am. We walk until about 10 am when we stop for tea and then stop again at 12 for lunch. I am hardly ever hungry, I am on such a spread out eating schedule at home, but Lhapka insists that we eat something often! Between all of the food and the liters and liters of water and tea, food is forced down into an already full stomach! After lunch we continue on to our destination, rest for a couple of hours in our small lodge room and then head down to the dining hall at 6pm. It seems strange that I am so much like a machine in this world dominated by wild places and nature. My body-like machine parts on a strict conveyor belt system of practice, discapline and efficiency. Sleep, pack, wash, eat, walk, drink, pee, eat, drink, walk, pee, drink, drink, drink, walk, walk, walk, walk, drink, drink, drink, drink, eat, sleep, pee, sleep. This is my day. I am a robot moving through the wilderness.

The lodges are all set up in the same fashion, a dining hall with small tables and benches framing the room. A long hall of very small rooms with lovely mountain views and two double beds. The rooms are constructed out of plywood and are bare except for one open bulb light. The rooms seem private but in fact you can hear every noise and word that comes out of your neighbors mouth through the single plywood walls. With only two small double beds John is on one side of the room, me on the other.. since we haven't showered for days.. this may not be a bad idea. The bed in the room next door is pushed up to the other side of the wall where my bed is.. I feel as if I am cuddling with a strange person.. usually an older man that loves to snore. With the high altitude every one snores.. everyone but me that is. Since most of the trekkers and adventurers in this region are men.. snoring concertos are extremely loud, lodge wide and usually occur all evening except for short periods when a particular snore bunny gets up for one of the many pee visists to the communal bathroom that is common practice for all us trekkers that drink a minimum of 3 liters of water a day on the mountain.
As for personal hygiene, I have not taken a shower since May 6 in Kathmandu. There are only a few showers on the trail.. we have not run into one yet. When we do, I am excited to wash off my body but it is not the same as a real shower. I still will not be able to wash my hair for fear that my body temp will drop dramatically with long wet hair that may not dry and will not be able to rise back up.. hypothermia and illness are the last things I need out here. Dirty seems like a better option. I am trying to keep my hair as clean as possible by keeping it tied back in a braided bun at all times. It is as clean as it could possibly be, but you can imagine with all of the walking that sweat mess is bound to occur. Gross! The hair in my armpits and on my legs has grown to a embarrassing length.. good thing I can only wear pants here! I just try not to think about it or look at it. A shower has to be up the mountain somewhere and for now the hair has to stay! I also have acquired a nasty rash in my arm pits and on my legs as a result of an allergy to a component, sulfa, in my altitude medication! The rash is a series of raised bumps and sores.. it is highly uncomfortable, itchy and getting more and more painful by the day. Yet with all of these endurance tests, my spirits are high and my adventure is great! I feel brave and bold on our endeavor and wake up excited for a new day each day! Only 13 more days until I get to wash my hair... good God that is a long time..
So today we are in Thama staying at our friend Apa's lodge (fitting titled) "The Everest Summiteer" (have I mentioned that Apa holds the world record for most summits of Mount Everest.. 17.. going for 18 in a few days!?) In Thame we rested yesterday and visited the Thame monestary for tea with the Llama Reincarnate and to watch a prayer session. Then we visited the small Thame school. Many children walk for miles and miles every day for the opportunity to go to school. School is every day all day Sunday - Friday. They only get Saturdays off as a holiday day. The school is made up of a series of small one room buildings that have no heat, no insulation and no lights. Yet the rooms are filled with colorful art and lessons, maps, pictures of a human eyes labeled in both English and Nepali. The rooms seem inviting with support and learning in such harsh conditions. Today we are lucky enough to get to go back to the school to take pictures of the kids before our walk to Kumjun. We also have the treat of walking with both Apa and Lhapka today. Apa is a celebrity up here, it is so nice to see him in his element. He seems so minature in comparrison to his massive oponents yet he is so strong and brave as he runs up his mountains. Every few feet we meet someone that either wants to shake Apa's hand, wish him good fortune on his climb, or that knows him and invites him in for tea, beer or rakshe (black tea and whiskey). Today Apa heads for base camp.. we are all thinking good thoughts for his climb.. for now... I better go get ready!
Nepal Family